Taking the tram from the Florence airport to the city center is intriguing in its details - and revealing of how ancient cities manage to keep themselves in the 21st century. On this tram ride, the surroundings change from modern shopping centers to quintessential Italian structures in all their pastel and towering glory. More and more hotels appear as you get closer to the route's last few stops and once you get off, tourists with rolling suitcases just keep rolling and rolling along the barely one-lane streets. It does make me feel bad for locals, who sometimes voice their contempt for the constant flow of tourists. But its not my fault that their ancestors created some of the most beautiful sites in the world (kidding, sort of).
As with most European cities, even the oldest parts of Florence with all the tourist attractions show the strange passage of time. Its funny to see a super old cathedral right next to an ATM or the ground floor of an old apartment building converted into a modern store. What definitely remains are the tiny cobblestone streets, huge doors, and buildings with narrow hallways. All of which starkly contrast with the layouts of massive strip malls and parking lots in the United States. If I could memorize every little street lined with rustic, pastel buildings, I would.
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| Streets right out of a movie |
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| The first busker I've ever heard sing opera |
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| more adorable streets |
Florence is among Italy's most influential cities. Scholars call it the birthplace of the Renaissance and many of the most famous Italian artists and writers made their marks here. Dante was born and raised here. Michelangelo's David sculpture is here and Michelangelo himself is buried here. Caravaggio's The Birth of Venus painting is here too. It really is an art lover's city.
The Uffizi Galleries (Galleria degli Uffizi) house some of Florence's most famous art, like the aforementioned Birth of Venus. I didn't think it would be that cool to see, but something about the color of the background really drew me in. This is a great example of how the subtleties of Italy manage to take up the most room in my brain. Everywhere you look in Uffizi is art, from the rooms to the joining hallways. There are huge statues, paintings of stately looking people, and great views from the windows.
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| view of Ponte Vecchio from Uffizi Galleries |
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| one of the many rooms in Uffizi |
Synonymous with Florence is Michelangelo's David, completed in 1504 and housed in the Accademia Gallery (Galleria dell'Accademia). The biblical hero stands 17 ft tall, slingshot in hand, and epically lit under a spotlight. I'm not sure what this says about me, but my favorite thing about Michelangelo's David is that in 2023, some parents at a school in Florida were upset with teachers for including an image of David in 6th grade lessons about the Renaissance, one parent taking issue with the statue's nudity in particular. The Galleria's director and the mayor of Florence then invited the school's parents, educators, and students to visit the statue for themselves. However, if you visit the gallery, stick around for more than David. There are more pieces by Michelangelo here and like at the Uffizi Galleries, even the rooms displaying the art are works of art themselves.
The downside of the Uffizi Galleries and Accademia Gallery is the crowds. Be sure to get tickets online in advance. If crowds are a major deterrent for you, head to the Bargello (Museo Nazionale del Bargello), a hidden gem packed with history. Since the 1200s, this huge building has been used as a palace, barracks, and as a prison until finally becoming a museum in the 1800s. It now houses art from the 1300s to 1600s, including sculptures by Donatello and pre-David works by Michelangelo.
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| The Bargello's tower makes it easy to spot |
Another major art and history lover's destination in Florence is the Basilica of Santa Croce in Florence (Basilica di Santa Croce di Firenze). This gorgeous church is where Michelangelo and Galileo are buried, but the surroundings make it that much more worthwhile as the areas to the north and northwest are slightly quieter and feel more local. You'll come across Piazza dei Ciompi with greenery that makes for a much welcomed bit of relaxation. Keep exploring north of Santa Croce to find Giardino di Borgo Allegri, another space for relaxation. The bustling, but culturally immersive Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio is nearby too. Get some Tuscan food and clothes here from 7AM to 2PM every day (except holidays).
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| Basilica of Santa Croce |
Yeah, yeah. I'm gettin' to it. Of course I'm going to talk about the Duomo. One of Florence's biggest (literally) highlights is the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, also known as the Duomo. As far as outside appearances go, this is among the most unique religious structures I've had the pleasure of visiting. With its colored marble, it almost looks fake when you get up close to it. The only thing that could possibly overshadow the immaculate intricacies of the cathedral's exterior is its dome, a major symbol of the city. In the 1400s, Architect Filippo Brunelleschi designed the dome, which is why it is also called Brunelleschi's dome (Cupola del Brunelleschi). It is self-supporting and remains the largest masonry dome in the world. You can go inside the cathedral and even climb the 463 steps up to the dome's interior.
The other defining feature of Florence's Duomo is Giotto's Bell Tower (Campanile di Giotto). It was completed in the mid-1300s and a climb to the top entails 414 steps. There are 12 bells and 16 white marble statues of prophets and patriarchs, some sculpted by Donatello. Whether you climb to the top of the dome or the bell tower depends on what you want to see: the huge paintings that line the dome's interior or the statues and city views that come with the bell tower. However, the dome's paintings really are sights to behold, if that makes your decision any easier.
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| close-up of the cathedral's details |
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| side of cathedral and bell tower |
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| dome and cathedral |
The Medici family ruled over Tuscany for most of the time between the 1400s through the early 1700s. While calling Florence home, they lived in two places that are now major attractions. Near the Uffizi Galleries is Palazzo Vecchio, a mainstay of Florence for 700 years and hard to miss thanks to its tall clock tower. Grand Duke Cosimo I de’ Medici notably lived here with his family in the mid-1500s. Despite still serving as a government building for Florence, Palazzo Vecchio is open to the public. Inside, you'll find a huge meeting hall with walls painted by Michelangelo (who else?) along with rooms where Medici family members studied and worshipped. At the palazzo's entrance, you'll also find a replica of Michelangelo's David and other quintessential Italian statues. Nearby is the Fountain of Neptune (Fontana del Nettuno) with rather unique statues. The longer you look, the weirder they get.
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| See what I mean about the fountain? |
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| David replica at Palazzo Vecchio |
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| Palazzo Vecchio behind a horse drawn carriage |
The second Florentine landmark which the Medici family once called home is Palazzo Pitti. I could have spent all day here. Aside from showcasing tons of art covering insanely opulent walls, the second floor has an exhibit on fashion over the past few centuries. Fitting, seeing as Italy is home to some of the most well-known fashion houses in the world. The rooms move from cases of huge ball gowns to Bridgerton-esque dresses to 20th century accessories. Check the display plaques to see which pieces are from global brand names like Balmain, Comme de Garcons, Gucci, and Armani.
Outside of Palazzo Pitti, the royal decadence continues through the palace gardens. If a period drama film hasn't already been filmed here, one definitely should be. As for city views, sometimes it's best to get views with the city's most iconic landmarks actually in the view. From Palazzo Pitti's gardens, you can see the Duomo and the rolling hills of Tuscany that make Florence feel so wonderfully nestled among Italian paradise -- one of the best types of paradise if you ask me.
One of the most photographed landmarks in Florence is Ponte Vecchio, and it's easy to see why. The little buildings on this bridge look like painted boxes of different sizes pressed into a row. Most of these boxes are stores, making the bridge a big shopping hotspot. Buying and selling along this bridge dates back to the 1200s, with blacksmiths and jewelers gaining particular prominence in the 1500s. The top layer of this bridge is another representation of how cities as old as Florence change with the centuries. This top layer above the little square shops is a private passageway commissioned by the Medicis so they could cross the bridge without mingling with the commonfolk. Stars. They're just like us!
At the southern end of Ponte Vecchio is a part of town called Oltrarno. Historic structures like the 14th century city entrance gate Porta di San Frediano is here, along with Palazzo Pitti. When you wander around the classic narrow Italian streets of this district, look for shops selling locally made items. You might even find these artists in action making their crafts from violins to ornate picture framing. Restaurants here have plenty of locally-made Tuscan food and of course Chianti wine. Borgo S. Jacopo is a great place to start in Oltrarno.
I went on a super nerdy side quest in Florence (shocking, I know). Central Italy may not be the first place that comes to mind when thinking about World War II, but Allied soldiers had to move through Italy just as they did in multiple other European countries. Also just as deceased Allied soldiers are honored in northern France (and many, many other places), they are in Florence too. The Florence American Cemetery commemorates those lost around this part of Italy and gives background information on which troops were involved. As I looked around the field of white crosses each inscribed with a name and military division, the fact that a lot of them each memorialized a 20-something kid or even a teenager really hit me. I have plenty of qualms about the United States' past and present, but in the case of WWII, the Americans were on the right side of history. The cemetery is a reminder of just how much of Europe was affected by WWII. In fact, Ponte Vecchio was the only bridge in Florence not severely damaged during the war. The cemetery also shows that although Europeans and Americans have varying opinions of each other, both sides have done well to show gratitude for each other when necessary. The cemetery is not a tourist hotspot and is slightly outside of town, but is accessible by bus.
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| walk to the building in the back for info |
Transportation tips:
The airport is the last stop on Florence's tram, which makes getting from the airport to the city center (and plenty of stops in between) pretty straightforward. What is a little less straightforward is the bus system. Google Maps is your friend, but walking is the best way to get around in Florence given that the best things about Italy are the little details in between the main attractions.
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