Complex Berlin

Updated November 2024

Berlin left me feeling conflicted, but I kind of expected it to. I couldn't get a specific feeling to ascribe to it. Of course there is soooo much history, but you can't actually see much of it because quite a bit was destroyed during World War II or destroyed by Germans themselves afterward. For example, the area around the former site of Hitler's Bunker where he stayed near the end of the war and during his final days is now next to some completely normal apartment buildings. His body was burned not too far from them. But there are obvious reasons as to why there are no remnants of the bunker. No one wanted to leave a place that could be turned into a pilgrimage site for Nazi supporters, as they disturbingly still exist (even in the United States). Therefore, lots of the city is very modern and was different from the other parts of Europe that I had seen.

This does not mean that Germany has tried to forget what happened in the 1930s and 40s -- quite the opposite. The history is preserved through other monuments and easily accessible information throughout. German children are even required to visit a former concentration camp and in the decades since WWII, Germany has been open to migrants and refugees. These welcoming policies are partly why Berlin's demographics are incredibly diverse. There are bratwursts everywhere, but also boba tea shops. Speaking of bratwursts, the one I had at Kumpel and Keule Metzgerhandwerk was so good that it ruined me for all other bratwursts. Curry 36 isn't bad either and has multiple little stands are all over Berlin like hot dog stands in NYC.

A walking tour is the best way to learn Berlin's history given how so many historic places look completely different now. The guide from Sandeman's Walking Tours gave amazing facts about many of the locations mentioned in this post. Sandeman tours are in most major European cities. It was incredible to learn about the historic events that had occurred right where I was standing. Walking tours show you Berlin's monuments that you might otherwise overlook too, including one at Humboldt University. This institution is famous because Albert Einstein was once a professor here, and infamous for being the site of a huge book burning. In 1933, students and professors burned books written by Jewish, communist, and any other authors from communities which the Nazis opposed. Among the concrete pavement around Humboldt, you'll find a flat piece of glass which you could almost walk right by without noticing. Look straight down to see empty library shelves commemorating the book burn. One could draw some comparisons to the modern day as American political parties argue over the right to ban books from schools. 

Humboldt University

Perhaps the most well-known visual representation of Berlin's history is the Berlin Wall. After WWII the Allies divided Germany into East Germany and West Germany as part of efforts to rebuild the shaken country. The Soviet Union had power over the eastern side while the US, UK, and France shared control of the western side. The same divisions existed within Berlin and while the Berlin Wall only split Berlin into East and West, it symbolized the divide between all Soviet-controlled countries found east of Germany and the rest of the entire continent -- hence the term "Iron Curtain." Although the wall famously came down in an epic celebration that involved news reporters and David Hasslehoff obviously, sections are still standing. At the Berlin Wall Memorial (there are two) and the East Side Gallery (with its famous murals) you'll find informational panels about those involved and people who tried to cross it. You can follow the path of the wall too, with lined bricks on the ground that cut through roads and sidewalks accompanied by plaques reading "Berliner Mauer, 1961-1989." Checkpoint Charlie is another place to see the history of Berlin's East and West division, though the current replica of this checkpoint is not where the original one actually stood.

Berlin Wall behind photos of people who tried to cross it

Of course there is a KFC at Checkpoint Charlie

Checkpoint Charlie is conveniently near the stunning Brandenburg Gate at Pariser Platz. Napoleon Bonaparte marched his troops under the Gate after defeating Prussia in the 1800s. But Prussia later defeated the French, hence the name Pariser Platz. Just on the other side of the Brandenburg Gate is the Reichstag Building. The glass dome here gives 360 degree views (buy tickets in advance) and currently houses Germany's Parliament.

behind Brandenburg Gate

Brandenburg Gate

Within view of the Reichstag is the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, also known as the Holocaust Memorial. It is an area of 2,711 grey blocks of different levels. Information about it is located underground in the same spot. This memorial is still controversial even 10 years after its completion, as many believe it is inadequate and too abstract.

I mean, I kinda get the criticism

Despite the lasting effects, Berlin is much more than its turbulent 20th century history. Berlin and nearby towns hold former homes of royalty from the era of Prussian rule before Germany unified in the late 1800s to more closely resemble its current borders. Away from the hub of Brandenburg Gate and the memorials is Charlottenburg Palace, the largest palace in Berlin. It was built for Sophie Charlotte, the first Queen consort of Prussia. Famous names like Queen Louise, King Frederick the Great, and King Frederick Wilhelm III all left their mark on the palace as well. The castle includes a ballroom (the Golden Gallery), Prussian crown jewels, items from Frederick the Great's collection, and a large park where Sophie Charlotte used to spend her days as only royalty would. Highly recommend.

Other iconic locations of Prussian royalty are found near Berlin just 40 minutes away in Potsdam. Before Potsdam became famous due to the Potsdam Conference held by the "Big Three," Franklin D. Roosevelt, Winston Churchill, and Joseph Stalin during World War II, the town was known for the Sanssouci Palace. This was the summer palace of Frederick the Great, king of Prussia. He designed the palace himself in the 1700s. The palace opened in 1747 and translates to "without worry" or "without a care" in French. It is surrounded with vineyards and gardens rivaling France's Versailles.

Museums covering a handful of subjects are at Museumsinsel, aka Museum Island. It is easy to find because it really is an island in the Spree River and features the Berliner Dom cathedral. The cathedral's ground floor is incredible on its own, but you can get great views of the entire city if you go up to the top. The basement is a mausoleum with royals and nobility. Museums nearby include Museum Ephraim-Palais focusing on 800 years of Berlin history, and the DDR Museum which shows how surprisingly different life in Soviet-controlled East Berlin was from the rest of Berlin during Germany's post-WWII division.

Berliner Dom

While Berlin may not be my favorite German place that I have visited thus far, it is a favorite among quite a few other travelers that I have met. It is not the best place for authentic Germany given the country's position as one of the most powerful in the world both in economy and politics. Berlin doesn't have lederhosen or fairy tale artsy chic wood paneled homes. However, David Bowie called it, "the greatest cultural extravaganza that one could imagine," and I'd assume that he was a pretty well-traveled guy.

Transportation tips: Berlin has transportation above and below street level: the S and U, respectively. There are buses as well. It can get confusing because of the size of the city and it is very spread out rather than tight-knit and dense like Paris. I had to accept defeat and use map apps on my phone instead of a paper map.

Weather Tips: Colder weather than you might expect during March. Trust me, I know.

More things to do and see:

• Berlin has lots of nightlife. The Klunker Kranich rooftop bar in particular gives a lovely view of the city.
• Stolperstein Stones (aka Stumbling Stones) are small goldish bronze plaques on sidewalks around Berlin that feature names of Nazi victims. The plaques for each victim are situated at their individual former places of residency. Keep your eye out for them and take at least a little bit of solace in the fact that these people have not been forgotten.
• Do some research to see if you can check out any flea markets that pop up all over the city. I found some pre-Euro coins myself, but beware of pushy salespeople.