Buda Lovin' Pest: Budapest, Hungary

Updated February 2025

Almost exactly 72 hours in Budapest and I learned one thing: Hungarian Horntail dragons are not real. Just kidding. I learned that Budapest has the same imposing glory that it did when the Matthias Church on the hilltop was being built 1,000 years ago. As with many former Soviet satellite countries, Hungary was perhaps not on many tourism itineraries until well after the Soviet Union dissolved in the early 1990s. But now, more and more people are discovering the unique experiences to be had here, as it is not quite Western Europe and has a slightly different history than its northern neighbors. Before even thinking about going to Budapest, I had heard nothing but amazing things about it. My trip there exceeded all of my expectations.

I arrived in Budapest to a fairytale-like snow flurry. I headed to an ATM (see how I screwed that up here) and began the tackling the learning curve of public transportation in a new city. Thankfully, Budapest has a great subway system. What I was perhaps most excited about was Parliament. Budapest's huge Parliament building is likely the most easily recognizable building in the city, and is definitely my second favorite man-made creation (second to the Colosseum). The inside is just as ornate as the outside, but book tickets to go inside in advance, as they can sell out for the day. Look for the Visitor Center to start your visit. If you cannot get tickets, go up close to the building anyway. The entire square has majestic statues reminiscent of a bygone kingdom, cultivated greenery, and the banks of the Danube give off a quiet ambiance to really make you stop and stare.

One of the trendy aspects of Budapest are its so-called "Ruin Bars." These bars are in old buildings and usually have mismatched, maximalist decor like that of an eccentric yet mysterious aunt. Szimpla Kert is one of the most popular while Csendes Létterem and Auróra are a bit more under the radar. These all show the artsy side of the city and that repurposing can be much better than bulldozing buildings down or throwing things away. "Upcycling" at its finest. Sure, "Boho chic" gets its name from the Czech region of Bohemia, but Hungary has this theme in spades too.

Outside of Szimpla Kert

Go back centuries in Budapest - and up to the Buda Castle, a highlight of the skyline and of Hungarian history. Though it became a palace and no longer houses royalty, remnants of the castle are still there as well as the iconic Matthias Church and Fisherman's Bastion. Do not be intimidated by the size of the Castle area's size. All of these places are easy to visit together. More importantly, all of these places offer incredible views of the city from inside and even just from outside, especially at night (though keep in mind that you cannot go inside of the church after 5 PM). At night, all of the Castle Hill area, the huge Parliament building, St. Stephen's Basilica, and all the bridges crossing the Danube River are lit up in golden lights. Bus Route 16, the Red Metro Line 2, and the Castle Hill Funicular Cable Car can take you to the entire area both during the day and at night easily (if you don't want to walk there on foot). The Cable Car is visible from the Buda side of the often photographed Chain Bridge.

St. Stephen's Basilica

Chain Bridge

Fisherman's Bastion

Fisherman's Bastion and Matthias Church

View of Parliament from Fisherman's Bastion

Back on the ground floor of the city, jump ahead to more recent centuries in Hungarian history. As hard as it is to believe seeing Budapest today, Hungary was once under Nazi occupation and then behind the Iron Curtain of the Soviet Union. These dark times in their history is preserved through museums and monuments. One of which could go nearly unnoticed if you're not looking for it: the Shoes on the Danube Bank. It commemorates people who were told to remove their shoes before being shot into the Danube by fascist Arrow Cross militiamen, a Hungarian group that sided with Nazi Germany when the Germans occupied Hungary in 1944. The memorial has no flashy signs and is almost overshadowed by Parliament slightly further up on the river, but its simplicity is what makes it so moving. For more on the Arrow Cross and Hungary's Nazi and Soviet occupations, visit the House of Terror Museum. The museum doubles as a memorial for victims of the Arrow Cross and both foreign occupations. The Shoes on the Danube Bank and House of Terror both show how fragile peace and freedom can be, and how many Hungarians didn't give up even when some of their own people, like members of the Arrow Cross, aided these regimes in their hostilities.

Shoes on the Danube Bank

As I mentioned, Hungary has some different historical influences than countries to its north. The Ottoman Turks once owned the area pre-World War I. Popular parts of Turkish culture are bath houses and Budapest has kept this part of its heritage alive and well. There are multiple natural spa areas in Budapest. The biggest one is the Széchenyi Thermal Bath. It is located right by Hero's Square, Vajdahunyad Castle, and City Park Ice Rink, in a park area from the Yellow Metro Line 1. The bath only costs around $20-$25 dollars to relax and experience the feeling of a Turkish bath house. Hanging out in what seems like a giant hot tub in a public park is quite memorable if I say so myself.

Hero's Square

Transportation Tips: Buy a public transportation pass for the amount of time that you'll be visiting. You can buy them at bus stops, including the one right at the main train station. You must show your pass to monitors in the metro stations. And keep in mind: Budapest does not have Ubers.

Miscellaneous Tips:

1. Free Walking Tours! They meet at various parts of the city (but it's nice to tip the tour guides).
2. Don't say 'thank you' to waiters/waitresses when you pay in cash unless you want them to keep the change.
3. Maverick City Lodge is probably the best hostel I've ever stayed in. It is affordable, clean, and is in a perfect location.
4. Budapest looks beautiful in snow, so don't be afraid to visit on the off-season.
5. Mind the currency conversion rate. Around 250 Hungarian forints equals 1 US dollar (this may fluctuate). Something that costs 600 forints is only a few US dollars. Take that into account at ATMs and at currency conversion services.